Jemaa el Fna is Marrakech's "main open space", but it would be "misleading" to call it a public square. It's "uncontained, disorderly, untainted by grandeur or pomp" - in fact it's "nothing less than bedlam". Both day and night it's a "carnival of local life". The square (which isn't square at all - as it is "irregular in shape as an accident of na
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This article appears on pages 425-427 of the October 2004 edition of the Rough Guide to Morocco. "There's nowhere in Morocco like the Djemaa el Fna" is the opening sentence. By day "it's little more than a market", but in the evening it becomes a "whole carnival of musicians and entertainers". There's "little that has compromised itself" for tou
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