Detailed review by merkat
merkat(42)
Beograd, Serbia88%
Moreška was always my favorite event. I remember those warm Mediterranean nights from my childhood when I was sneaking with local kids trying to peak through plastic screens covering the fence to the "stadium" where Moreška was performed and hiding from "the evil guard". Boys were pretending to be red and black soldiers and girls were sighing imagining how they would play the princess, when they grow up. I wanted to be a princess too, but unfortunately, I wasn't local, so I didn't have the chance to become Bula - ever. And in fact "the evil guard" was the old man who was selling tickets and he was tolerating us until we start to make noise and bother people who actually bought tickets. Needless to say that we all knew all dialogues by heart, as we were there every time Moreška was performed.
Of course, I've seen Moreška many times "legally", too (and I still know some of the dialogues - so it is obvious that my review will be very personal) and as a grown-up. The program starts with variety of different folklore dances and songs from Korčula. You can hear the famous "klapa" style singing, characteristic for southern Dalmatioa, see some old folklore dancing and hear some old instruments. Moreška sword dance comes at the end of the program.
Costumes in Moreška are red and black, and the only female character is dressed as Middle East princess. What is special about Moreška is that performers use real swords, which are not sharp, but still are dangerous, so performing requires great skill and steadiness. During battle swords are producing sparks and sometimes someone even gets hurt (slightly). So, it is romantic, it is heroic and you can see the folklore performances in addition - there is enough to suit everyone's taste. Oh, did I mention that kids simply love it? :o)))
THE STORY
The story is about the battle between the Red and the Black King, over Bula who is Red King's fiancée. Black King, son of Arabian emperor, takes by force and imprisons Bula, trying to persuade her to respond to his love. But Red King comes to rescue his beloved and fights Black King. In the end Black King is defeated and Bula happily returns into arms of her beloved Red King.
The play begins dramatically: two Black Army soldiers with torches are standing on the stage as Black King (locally called "Moro") enters dragging chained Bula. She fights him helplessly but proudly, saying him to leave her alone because her heart belongs to another man. After a short dialogue, drums announce the entrance of Osman, the Red King, locally called "Bili" (which means "white"). The two kings are challenging each other, and as tension rises, the red and the black army enter the stage with flags, torches and swords, taking their positions facing the enemy and ready for battle. Kings decide to fight each other and they cross their swords. When Red King calls on his men to fight, the two armies clash swords and then break away from one another in order to make way for the Black King's Dance named "Sfida". By this dance, Black King challenges the Red King who accepts the challenge, and then the Black King's father, Otmanovic and a soldier from the White King's army join the fight. They dance in a circle threatening one another with swords.
At the end of Sfida, the war dance begins and it develops through the passionate sword combat. Moreška is divided into seven different dancing figures, named "kolap" or strokes, consisted of different and complicated rhythms and patterns which are performed within circles. Black soldiers have more difficult role in Moreška, as they are gradually outnumbered with each "kolap" so they have to fight faster with more than one red soldier. After the 4th stroke Bula tries to stop the war offering her life in exchange, but war continues. Each "kolap" is faster the the one before. Finally, Black soldiers fall down defeated. Black King and his father admit defeat and surrender, laying their swords at their enemy's feet. Red King frees the Bula from her chains and they say each other romantic words before they kiss.
HISTORY
Moreška (pronounced as "Moreshka") is a sword-dance in form of and epic drama with elements of romantic plot, followed by brass music. The word " Moreška" means "Moorish" which derived from either Spanish ("morisco") or Italian ("moresco" - the war dance with the Moors Moriski is called "Moresca" in Italian). It is one of the oldest traditional European dances still performed.
The dance came originally from the Mediterranean countries in the 12th and 13th centuries. It is supposed that Moreška first came to Korčula from Spain in the 16th century across the South Italy and Dubrovnik. Through the centuries Moreška disappeared from the Mediterranean, leaving only traces in some parts, and remained only in Korčula, where it is performed for over 400 years.
There are two possible interpretation of the Moreška, of which the first one is more widely accepted. The first one refers that the dance represents to the conflict between Moors and Spanish Christians, inspired by the victory over a Battle of Lepanto, the first major Ottoman defeat by the Christian powers, which ended the myth of Ottoman naval invincibility. The second one suggests that Moreška represents the battle between Arabs and Turks. Although it is very surprising that in such a Christian environment Moreška was preserved as an imagery of the conflict between the two Moslem rulers, the main (and only) female character's clothes, which is in recognizable Muslim-oriental style, and name "bula", which means Moslem maiden, as well as Red King's name - Osman, all speak in the favor of the second theory. In both theories Moro, the Black King, is Arab.
The text, music and pattern of the dance have been slightly altered and shortened (the contest used to last for two hours!) over the years.
LOCATION AND DATE
The main Moreška dance is performed on July 29th, the day of ST. Todor, protector of the town, but since it is one of the major attractions of Korčula, it has been has been transformed into a regular event during the summer season (June through September) for at least once a week on several locations in the town of Korčula. There are exclusive and more expensive performances within the Old Town Tower. On the July 29th Moreška performers are cruising around the Old town, in "full gear" with flags and torches, before the performance, which is the attraction alone and looks more authentic.
Since Korčula is a small town, it is not difficult to find anything - so don't miss the opportunity to see Moreška.
The Moreska Sword Dance10
Ratings
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Accessibility
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"Must See"-Factor
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Budget Friendliness
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Ambiance
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Suitable for Children
