Hammamet

The Hammamet Medina is smaller than one in Sousse, so it is easier to find your way in and out, but there's still a good chance for getting lost in a maze of narrow streets. Medina walls were built in late 15th century by Hafsites in order to protect from outside danger and to provide safe and undisturbed living within its' walls. Therefore it became the center of trade in the region, but now days it became plain tourist trap. Architecture might not be the most impressive, but it is in excellent condition. I am a big fan of old fortresses and I liked this one, although it's small and too touristy - there is nothing that can wipe out centuries of history glowing from old stones. Anyway, how could it remain authentic when people live in it? Their main occupancy is trade, so it is logical that they're going to sell whatever is sold the best - and that means souvenirs. There are few nice cafes, decorated in old style, but surprisingly, not expensive ones. They are offering regular drinks and traditional tea and opportunity to smoke tobacco from special smoking devices. You can relax and feel like you're in the middle of 1001 nights.

There are few ways to get to Hammamet Medina: you can take a long, but nice, walk from tourist area, if your hotel is close enough, or you can get there by local train (which we haven't tried) for small amount of money, but that is totally unnecessary if you don't want to experience the adventure of "acting like a local", since taxis are very cheap.

What you have to be careful about, the same second you get in front of Medina, is not to accept unofficial guidance from locals as they will try to get you to their houses or shops. It is the best that you simply ignore them. Also, do not accept any "gifts" from locals - they'll give you something, saying it's a gift, and when you accept it, they'll ask you to give them ridiculously high amount of money for the item (eg. 2 Dinars for one jasmine flower!!!).

Shops in Medina offer pottery, pottery and more pottery, but you can also find some fine brass handicrafts, leather accessories, spices packed in small portions (so convenient for tourists!) with name tags, items made of olive tree wood (very nice, but very expensive), bijoux made of glass pearls (don't miss to buy the "eye" - it comes in lot of different sizes) and fluffy camels (try NOT to buy one if you're with your kid - you'll see it's impossible). Shortly - there is nothing here that you cannot buy in other shops around town. The good news is that you can bargain here. Of course, any experienced tourist knows that one should first check prices in "non negotiable" shops, to get the idea of what the good price really is. Of course, this doesn't mean that you shouldn't go to see Medina. On contrary, the Medina is very nice and you can make incredible holiday photos.

People that live inside Medina are very poor and they'll try anything to persuade you to buy in their shops, and that also includes grabbing your hand dragging you inside the shop, or not letting you out of the shop until you buy something. That is quite scary and might cause you to panic, especially when they look angry and very unpleased that you don't want to buy anything, but just stay calm and determined to get out, as they won't hurt you. It's good to know that the word "police" is the magic word, but use it sparingly, just in case of critical necessity. Although we new all about this strange custom from previous year (we have spent our holiday in Port el Kantaoui) one shop owner succeeded to annoy us so much that my husband made terrible mistake. Being unable to get us out without pushing the annoying salesman, who was blocking our way out and trying to sell us some ugly looking souvenir for 100 Dinars (which was incredibly unrealistic price), my husband presumed that if he cuts the price 10 times, the salesman will be "insulted" by the offer and let us go (he saw me many times performing this negotiating game, so he felt experienced enough to act alone). Alas, before I could stop him, he said the price of 10 Dinars, which was still too high for that item, the salesman shook his hand happily, which meant that the deal was made. Realizing his mistake, my husband tried to refuse the deal, but I've stopped him, uneager to experience the "magic word" used against us. Finally we left the shop with that stupid overpriced souvenir, feeling exhausted and unhappy with the outcome. But, my husband learned the valuable lesson - that he should always let ME to do the bargain :o)