Detailed review by Praskipark
Praskipark
Warsaw, Poland97%
To say the Alentejo covers a large expanse of land in Portugal the regions restaurants are sometimes quite small. This restaurant I am going to tell you about now isn't the smallest I have ever been to but it isn't the largest either. Based in Evora and seating approximately 30 people the 'Luar de Janeiro' (in Portuguese - 'By the light of the January Moon') possibly given its title because of the astounding clarity of light in the Alentejo and also because it is situated on Travessa do Janeiro (January Street), is one of the nicest restaurants in Evora and Evora has some mighty fie establishments to choose from.
Because the restaurant is small and always busy there is a warm atmosphere created by the staff and guests who choose to dine here.
The decor isn't too fancy, quite restrained in a way with it's wood panelling covering a third of the walls and the rest white-washed. Tables and chairs are wooden; tablecloths and napkins are white trimmed with blue, dishes are co-ordinated; white porcelain with wedgewood decorative edges. But it isn't the decor people visit this award winning restaurant for - they come solely for the innovative cuisine served.
I recommend a starter - try the fresh melon or sheep's cheese. if you like a spicy flavour with a touch of garlic then home-made chourico is a must - smooth and delicious to the palette. My favourite starter is a plate of pataniscas de bacalhau. Small titbits of bacalhau deep fried in a creamy batter made from eggs and flour. Love the taste of the salted cod, mixed with fresh parsley and fried onion.
Always very difficult to choose between a fish or meat course for the main part of a meal here in this restaurant. My husband always chooses fish usually red mullet with rice and clams. Basically this is really a fish stew where red mullet is added to a broth made of onions, garlic, coriander, tomatoes, red pepper and wine. I assume these ingredients are fried in olive oil before the rice is added as the rice is always fully absorbed in the liquid and always tastes of Portuguese Virgin Olive Oil. I use the word Portuguese here with pride because I believe olive oil from my adopted country is the finest in the world.
My husband always raves about this dish, having been to this restaurant several times over the years, he has never ever said that the mullet hasn't been fresh. As it arrives daily from Setubal then there are no reasons why it shouldn't be fresh. A scrumptious meal that gets the thumbs up.
Other interesting meat dishes are a local dish - pig's trotters with coriander, lamb stew or hare risotto. Sometimes I like to eat pigs trotters and I love lamb stew but I really adore the hare stew. Of course, it is only on the menu when it is in season. It is such a rich dish and I am not sure what gives the stew its rich flavour but my guess is that it has a good dose of brandy and red wine which is either added when cooking or been used as a marinade before cooking. Whatever the concoction it is delicious. I love the smoky taste of the added bacon, mixed with the smooth earthy taste of mushrooms and creamy taste of buttered onions. Bread is served with the stew or you can have croutons on top.
Desserts always look tempting and it is difficult to refuse. As in nearly all Alentejo restaurants morgados are on offer , little sweet balls of heaven, made of figs and nuts. Sericaia (the traditional dessert of the region) is a wonderful pudding when eaten with fresh plums.
The wine list isn't too long, all bottles promoting nearby Alentejan vineyards. I recommend either a red or white wine from the Fundacao Eugenio de Almeida Estate. The Cerca Nova Tinto is inexpensive, very smooth and smells of cherries. If you prefer white then still from this range, the Cerca Nova Branco is a very crisp white wine bursting with citrus flavours.
Price wise - you are looking somewhere in the region of 30 Euros plus including wine and three courses. Plates are enormous and filled to the top. I don't think you can grumble at that price especially in the beautiful ancient city of Evora.
You can find Luar de Janeiro on Travessa do Janeiro 13.
Luar de Janeiro9
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