Dundee is a Scottish city situated on the east coast, on the north bank of the river Tay estuary. The city has recently undergone something of a revival and is now known for Captain's Scott's RRS Discovery, the Beano comic and its lively cultural scene. Although surrounded by farming country, Dundee's prosperity was built on sea trade, whaling and the jute industry. The surrounding countryside has rugged coast, Highland glens and golf galore, all within easy reach.
Discovery City on the banks of silvery Tay
Dundee is Scotland's fourth largest city, splendidly situated on the northern banks of the river Tay around the
Law hill. Long known for the 3 Js of jute, jam and journalism, Dundee owed its original prosperity to its sea-trade. It was connected by ferry to North Fife, but principally concerned with trading with Northern Europe. In the 19th century, Dundee's port was of huge importance, its expansion linked to the jute trade from India and the south Atlantic whaling. By 1870, over 200 ships and 18 whalers were registered at Dundee docks. At the same time the jute industry thrived and modern Dundee developed as something of an industrial boom town. The 19th century jute barons built their mansions in the wealthy suburbs of Broughty Ferry, but the city itself gained its monumental public buildings which still form the main fabric of Dundee's centre. Dundee's best known tourist attractions are a vivid reminder of its rich maritime and industrial heritage, while the characters from the Beano comics are immortalised in
statues Dundee's streets. The city has reinvented itself many times during its turbulent history and modern Dundee is a thriving post-industrial place with two universities, an excellent theatre and visual arts scene and several first-class tourist attractions.
Sights and attractions
Most of Dundee's best attractions are located in the riverside or west end, but the city's main museum and art gallery,
McManus Galleries offers a good collection of historical exhibits and art, recently updated and refurbished, displayed in a splendid neo-Gothic building which is tucked away from the main shopping area around the High Street. Nearby is the
Howff, the oldest Dundee cemetery and a surprising oasis of peace allowing a peek into the city's past recorded on its graves. More recent Dundee heritage is celebrated at
Verdant Works, a busy and popular attraction exploring the history of the jute industry in Dundee and the life in the mill town in a series of imaginative, modern displays.
Dundee brands itself a "city of Discovery" and the RRS Discovery takes pride of place on Dundee's river front, with a modern museum/exhibition centre at
Discovery Point: all in all probably the best Dundee attraction for the whole family, from children to adults. Nearby
Sensation, a modern hands-on science centre, concentrates on the physics and physiology of the senses and is an excellent if expensive example of the edutainment type of attraction: most appropriate for 7-11 year olds, but younger and older children will find it fascinating. Further along the Dundee seafront, frigate
Unicorn, the oldest wooden man of war still afloat, is worth a look if only for its figurehead collection. It is moored on the other side of the Tay bridge from the Discovery Point and near the new shopping areas at City Quays.
Dundee has some good natural spaces, from the riverside promenade to an excellent
Camperdown Country Park, complete with a small
zoo, a play park with a boating lake and a golf course. The University of Dundee
Botanic Garden offers a herb garden, extensive area of parkland and two large greenhouses. The Dundee
Law (law means hill in Gaelic) is a focal point of the city. Topped by a Cenotaph, it is worth a visit for fantastic views over the Tay estuary and beyond to Fife.
Mills Observatory, located on the Balgay Hill, is the only observatory in the United Kingdom to have been built specifically for public use and is free to visit, with various activities and exhibitions on offer.
Culture and entertainment
DCA (Dundee's Contemporary Arts Centre) is at the heart of the city's cultural life, with excellent exhibitions, arts cinema, all kinds of classes and activities and a good cafe.
Dundee Rep has a full-time acting ensemble and dance team and is a venue for numerous visiting productions. City-centre
Caird Hall is a venue for classical, folk and pop music as well as craft and sales fairs.
Dundee's
Mountain Film Festival is among the longest-standing events of this kind in the UK, organised by volunteers from the city's climbing clubs. The city also hosts numerous music events, including an important
Guitar Festival,
Fest'n'Furious dedicated to traditional music and
Jazz Dundee. Dundee
Literary Festival celebrates the best of Scottish and international writing, while the
Flower and Food Festival is a focus for enthusiasts of horticulture and cookery, with appearances from celebrity chefs and well known gardeners.
Further afield
Dundee can be used a base for exploring the surrounding areas as it has good transport links and is surrounded by attractive countryside and historic towns.
Nearby
Broughty Ferry, now a suburb of the city, has a good beach and a riverside
castle, now a museum and a great viewpoint. Close to the castle is a beach and another attractive adventure playpark for children. Monikie and
Crombie country parks offer sensitively managed natural spaces and gentle walking only minutes drive away from the city, while golf is available in
Monifieth and at world-renowned
Carnoustie.
St Andrews with all its attractions (including golf) is only about 45 minutes drive away and connected by a frequent bus service.
Arbroath, home of the declaration of Arbroath and the ruins of
Arbroath Abbey as well as beautiful, red sandstone cliffs (the cliff top path offers a good if occasionally precarious walk) is connected to Dundee by a regular and frequent bus service. Nearby St Vigeans has a good collection of
Pictish stones. Many visitors to Dundee also make a trip to
Glamis castle, known for its Royal connections others head for the Angus Glens, all of which offer plenty of walking opportunities.
Dining
The best eating and drinking places in Dundee can be found in the west end of the city near the university, while the suburbs and satellite towns of Broughty Ferry and Monifieth have places worth the trip.
Great Italian food is available at
Piccolo and
The Italian, while French dishes slow-cooked to specific requirements can be sampled at the delightful
Bon Appetit brasserie. The restaurant at the
Dundee Rep is a popular choice for pre-theatre dinner and relaxed lunches, while nearby
the Playwright combines quality modern cooking with a stylish interior.
Ethnic options in Dundee cover everything from fine Thai dining at
Rama Thai to the ever-popular, lively Middle-Eastern kebab house
Agacan. The jazz-themed
Beiderbeckes Bistro is a worthy budget option slightly out of the centre, while perhaps the best place for a pub lunch is in the Broughty Ferry suburb, at the splendidly situated
Ship Inn. Also in Broughty Ferry,
Visocchi's is a long-standing cafe and ice-cream parlor which has become a local institution. Further out in Monifieth is the
Blue Marlin, the best fish restaurant in the area.
Accommodation
Modern
Apex City Quay is located in a prime spot in the newly developed docklands by the Dundee quayside. The Tay Bridge has sleek rooms, great views over the river, excellent spa facilities and a choice of well-rated dining options. The Dundee
Hilton is another four-star riverside option with many facilities on site and good views. Those looking for old-fashioned hospitality and personal service should head for
Taychreggan, out of the very centre of Dundee in what was a villa of one of the Dundee's industrial barons. Their food draws consistent praise and the bar has a collection of over three hundred malt whiskies.
The chains have a strong representation in Dundee, with the Best Western having the best offerings, from the
Woodlands in the eastern part of the city to
Invercarse on the western approach and the very central, old and with period touches
Queens which is best for those looking for a hotel located in the heart of the city and is good for the Cultural Quarter too. Dundee's
Holiday Inn Express is functional and well maintained, handy for the city centre.
Budget options include the
Backpackers in the recently refurbished five buildings with period touches (of which the oldest dates to 16th century) near the City Square, as well as the practical
Travelodge. The Discovery Quay
Premier Inn is a decent lower-priced option in a great riverside location.
Broughty Ferry abounds in B&Bs and hotels and
Marlee and
Abertay are among the best there, with the
Fisherman's Tavern being a popular pub which is affordable but cozy and a good place for a traditional pub meal.
The Broughty Ferry Hotel is a small, quality hotel with a gym, swimming pool and an Indian restaurant on site.
Conclusion
Dundee has more to offer a visitor than it might initially appear from its somewhat grim industrial history. From modern, imaginatively designed attractions celebrating its industrial and maritime heritage to a lively cultural life from shopping to golf and country parks in the surrounding countryside, Dundee has successfully reinvented itself and is certainly worth at least a weekend's stay. It also offers good transport links and an accommodation base which can be used for further exploration of Scotland's east coast cliffs, towns and villages and the inland parts of the Angus County with its peaceful countryside and secluded mountain glens.
