Detailed review by magdadh
magdadh
Perth, United Kingdom93%
Our last day in Kythira starts late. We have the standard Greek checkout which is at a wonderfully civilised midday and thus can pack up and get ready at our leisure. The ferry is at 10pm, so we have most of the day. The plan to is have a meal and a swim at the delightful Diakofti beach on the other side from the ferry terminal, but before that we decide to visit Agios Georgios Sto Vouno (St George of the Mountain) is a chapel located atop a hi.
Agios Georgios Sto Vouno (St George of the Mountain) is a chapel located atop a hill on the eastern shore of Kythira. From the 350m elevation the hill overlooks the harbour of Diakofti, the Avlemonas village, islets that dot the sea by Kythira's shore and the Paleopoli beach.
The road up the hill is narrow and curves in tight bends, as we drive higher the bends are tighter and the drops higher, but the surface is mostly concrete and it's perfectly passable to a normal car slowly. Near the bottom, the hill is covered in the typical Greek vegetation, scrubby bushes and dwarf trees, herbs with an intoxicating smell. Goats roam among the plants and colourful beehives dot the roadside. Higher up, the rock becomes barer and the vegetation sparser, and at the top there are more stones than clumps of grass.
The views are magnificent, better than the moderate height of the hill would suggest. Opposite, a higher peak with the large Agia Moni monastery, and below, the ferry harbour and the dramatically picturesque, half-submerged wreck by an islet to the south of the harbour. Behind us, the curve of the coast from Avlemonas to Kaladi beach, the area of the oldest Kythira settlements. Above, the peak of the hill and more views to the mainland of Peloponnese.
The church of Agios Georgios dates back to early centuries of our era, with preserved 7th century mosaics inside, including some animal and human figures. Outside, it's a compact, curved, barrel-roofed building, and despite its blazing white-wash, it appears to be an organic part of the mountain, at one with the rocks, the sky, sun and sea. The history of Christian worship on this hill is long enough, but its spiritual significance is thousands years older than the oldest Christian remains. The Minoans had one of their peak sanctuaries here whose discovery in the early 1990's confirmed that Kythira had witnessed a Minoan settlement during the Bronze Age.
There are no visible remains of the sanctuary, but knowing of its existence confirms the continuity of worship on this peak and adds significance. The archaeologist we meet in the church and engage in conversation asks us what religion we are and exhibits some rather narrow-minded sentiments for somebody supposedly engaged in a impartial discovery of the past (“we like Protestants but we don't like Catholics here) but despite that the dark, small cavern of the church, and the sun and air bathed open peak alike seem to be infused with positive energy, a pure and high impulse of human minds reaching to things that are bigger than it is.
Do visit Agios Georgios Sto Vouno if you have a chance: it's possible to climb the hill from Avlemonas or drive up it from a road that comes off the main road to the ferry port and Diakofti. The views are magnificent and the strong and positive vibe make for a memorable experience.
Aghios Gheorghios sto Vouno10
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