koshkha
Northampton, United Kingdom95%
Background to our visit
Back in February I booked a tour to Ladakh in the Indian Himalayas with a stay in Delhi at either end of visit. I love Delhi and I wanted some extra time to see a couple of the museums and monuments so I booked the flights a day early on the way out and a day late on the way back. Consequently I needed to find hotels for the extra nights that weren't covered by our tour.
It soon became apparent that even though we were travelling at a time of year when nobody with half a brain would choose to go to Delhi (i.e. second half of June with the monsoon on the horizon and temperatures up around 40 degrees) the options were limited. We could either pay £10 and stay in a place with hot and cold running cholera, bed bugs and well-shared sheets, or pay £80-plus for a run of the mill 'international standard' hotel. What I really fancied was a bit of a blow-out at a fancy hotel.
So I read dozens of reviews, weighed up the pros and cons of the different options and then did what every good woman should when faced with a tough and rational shopping decision. That's right, I chose the place I really wanted to stay and then developed a complex story about why it was actually not such a daft thing to do after all. I followed my heart and went for The Imperial and it was worth every penny.
A word of warning on hotel taxes in Delhi
A couple of years ago the local government in Delhi changed the taxation system for hotel rooms. Instead of taxes being calculated as a percentage of the room rate that you pay, the new system is based on the room 'rack rate' - i.e. the 'standard' or published room price which is almost always a lot higher. This devious system was clearly designed by a sweaty civil servant in a polyester shirt working in an office with no air-con and is a clear 'Let's punish the rich tourists' tax. However, it's tough on the hotels that are seeing declining visitor numbers as tour groups cut back on their time in Delhi to avoid the high costs.
The tax is 12.5% of the 'rack rate' plus and additional 0.625% on top for sheer 'absolutely-no-idea-why-b ut-we'll-get-away-with-it ' reasons. On our bill for the Imperial the 'luxury tax' accounted for an additional 27% on top of the room rate. Luckily I knew this in advance and was prepared for it but if you aren't expecting it, the tax can be a shocker and turns a good bargain into a bit of a let-down and can spoil an otherwise great experience.
Why did I want to go to the Imperial?
The Imperial is one of the world's greatest hotels - it's the kind of place where you don't have to say 'The Imperial Hotel, Delhi' any more than you'd have to call Raffles 'The Raffles Hotel, Singapore So reason number one for staying at The Imperial - sheer unadulterated SNOB VALUE.
About 6 years ago my husband and I took a tour round Rajastan with a group of strangers who became exceptionally good friends. At the end of our trip we returned to Delhi and were recovering from a couple of days on camels (evil smelly antisocial beasts) and sleeping in the Thar Desert. We were looking for a bit of luxury and a slap-up dinner after two weeks of incessant 'rice and daal'. Based on a guidebook recommendation we booked the Spice Route at the Imperial. After two weeks in tents and the sort of hotels where the electricity switch is under the shower head and the furnishings date back to when Adam was a lad, the luxury of The Imperial just blew us away.
From that day forward my 'must do before I die' list got an addition - to stay at The Imperial.
So those are some of the emotional reasons for wanting to stay - i.e. it's beautiful, classy and one of the world's best hotels. But what of the other reasons?
1. Location - Location - Location
- The Imperial is located on Janpath - historically known as Queensway - just one block out from Connaught Place which is the hub of New Delhi for shopping, eating and getting around.
- It's just across the road from the giant government crafts store - The Central Cottage Industries Emporium where anyone who wants an easy stress free shopping experience can load up on all their presents and goodies. Between the hotel and Connaught Place you pass a host of smaller craft shops that are well worth a look.
- Everybody knows exactly where it is - no taxi driver will ever get lost looking for The Imperial
2. Peace and Quiet
- There's no denying it, Delhi is a noisy place. If you aren't careful you can find that your hotel is on a road junction with vehicles 'horning' (yep, that really is the correct local term!) each other all day and all night, changing gear and generally making their presence felt. You may also find that your lovely quiet hotel is next door to a major building site.
- The joy of the Imperial is that its eight acre garden site enables the hotel to be set back slightly from the road. So even though you are slap-bang at the heart of things, it's remarkably quiet.
- All the rooms have special noise reduction glazing.
3. History and Tradition
- Although it was only built in 1931, 20 years after New Delhi became the capital of India, The Imperial is steeped in history.
- The hotel was the venue for the negotiations between the leading Indian independence activists and the British 'rulers'. When you stay there you are rubbing shoulders with the ghosts of some of history's greatest men. Im really into Indian history (you probably aren't - I do realise I'm a bit odd in that respect) so for me this is fascinating. The Imperial hosted talks between Pandit Nehru (who became India's first Prime Minister and was the father of Indira Gandhi and allegedly the lover of Mountbatten's wife), Mahatama Gandhi (I'm assuming I don't need to explain who he was), Muhammad Ali Jinnah (he became the first Governor General and President of Pakistan) and the Viceroy, Lord Mountbatten.
- The Imperial was built by a gentleman called SBS Ranjit Singh in 1931 to a design by an architect called Blomfield, a close friend and associate of the more famous Sir Edwin Lutyens - the architect between the creation of New Delhi. The architectural style is described as a blend of Victorian, Old Colonial and a dash of Art Deco. SBS Ranjit Singh's motor car is still parked outside the hotel.
What did it cost and how did we book?
We paid $220 (approx £120) for one night at The Imperial. This rate was for an 'Imperial Room' (the smallest and least expensive option) and included breakfast for two as well as airport transfers on arrival and departure. As we weren't going back to the airport, they gave us a car to take us to our next hotel instead without any quibbling. Bearing in mind that most hotels will charge a minimum of 1000-2000 Rupees (about £12-£25) for airport pick up, this made the accommodation element of the stay pretty close to the £100 mark INCLUSIVE of taxes. A very average international standard hotel would have cost only £10-20 less so I believe the extra was well worth it.
I found a very similar deal on Expedia but I actually got a friend/colleague in India to handle the booking for me directly. He wanted to help and as he sorted out giving them all our flight details and non-smoking requests, I was happy for him to do so.
So, did it live up to expectations?
There's always a risk that when you've wanted something a lot and for a long time, you may be disappointed but The Imperial didn't disappoint in any possible way.
--Arriving at the Airport
Our transfer had been pre-arranged. On leaving the airport a gentleman from The Imperial was waiting in a prominent place with a name board. Normally the 'greeter' then hands you off to the 'driver' and you head for the hotel. In this case, both the greeter and the driver drove back with us. This was the first time I'd experienced a double 'meet and greet' team with a hotel transfer.
Once in the car we were offered bottles of chilled mineral water and subjected to some light 'banter' - nothing too intrusive. We were asked if it was our first time in India and at The Imperial and when I mentioned that we'd eaten there before, the greeter asked if we'd like him to book us a reservation for that evening. So by the time we got to the hotel about half an hour after pick up, we were all sorted for dinner.
--Arriving at the Hotel
As you turn off Janpath and onto the driveway, two security guards step out of a booth and check the underside of the vehicle with long handled mirrors. Hmm, we thought, no bombs or illegal immigrants under our car. You then drive up to the entrance passing through the colonnade of 24 tall, elegant palm trees before stopping under the entrance cover. Flunkies in turbans and smart uniforms open the car doors and take your luggage. The greeter walked us into the reception hall and over to the desk where checkout was completed quickly and without fuss. We were arriving at around noon, which can be a tricky time if the hotel hasn't succeeded in kicking out last night's hangers-on, but there was no delay.
-- First Impressions
As you enter the reception and concierge desk is on the left and the bell-desk and luggage storage is on the right. The gym is down a corridor to the right. Comfy seating and newspapers are laid out in a sitting area ahead and to the right. There are very odd flower arrangements on pedestals in the centre of the reception area - a little too modern perhaps for the setting but intriguing none the less. Beside check in is the Chanel store - it's the only one in the whole of India so whilst I have no interest in over-priced clothing, I think its presence endorses The Imperial's status as the top hotel in the country.
-- The Walk Through
After check in we were 'walked' to our room by a lady from reception. As we went she explained all the places we passed on the way - the name of each restaurant or bar, what sort of food they served and so on. She also pointed out how to get to the garden and the swimming pool. We went up one floor, along some nicely decorated and carpeted corridors until we came to our room on the end of the corridor - Room 141. At this point I took a deep breath and held it whilst she opened the door
-- The Room
We had booked the lowest grade of room so I was really pleased by how lovely it was. The door opened onto a room with a high ceiling (I'd guess about 14 feet). The floor was cool marble and all the furnishings were in matching red-brown wood.
The room had :
- Minibar with kettle, tea bags, coffee and complimentary mineral water
- Desk looking out over the garden with telephone and lamp
- TV cabinet with rather an average TV - but then, we weren't there to watch it were we?
- Suitcase stand
- Tall wardrobe
- Six foot wide bed with pale peach and white quilted cover. Very nice!
- Bedside tables with lamps
- Windows - three of them looking over the gardens with roman blinds and long curtains
- Old prints on the wall
- Marble floors
The bathroom had natural light because we were on the end of the corridor - so much nicer than when the bathroom is enclosed. The bathroom had a loo, a bath with marble sides, a separate shower cubicle with high power rain-head and marble topped vanity unit. Also in the bathroom were weighing scales, bathrobes and slippers, a magnifying shaving/make up mirror and a basket of goodies - shower cap, Fragonard toiletries (soaps, body lotion, shampoo, shower gel), sewing kit.
Watch out for the marble floors when your feet are wet - absolutely deadly!
The TV had no CNN - I say 'hoorah and thank goodness for that' but there was a letter from the manager explaining that CNN had increased their tariff by 65% and the hotel refused to be subjected to such extortion and so had chosen to de-list the channel. I rather liked that sense of independence.
-- So you are there, what next?
We'd flown in overnight so we were both a bit tired, my husband went straight to sleep, I went for a shower - and we all settled in for a bit of a rest. Then when I roused the snoring beast and reminded him how much we were paying for the hotel and we set off to explore before dinner. We strolled around the corridors checking out the prints and paintings. The Imperial considers itself to be a 'museum hotel' with some of the rarest works of art from the days of the Empire. I can't really say that I noticed anything truly spectacular but there were some lovely pieces of furniture dotted about the place.
Once we'd checked out the book shop and the sandwich shop (closed), found the gym (and decided to ignore it), peeked into the grand ballroom and admired the frescos, we headed out into the garden. As Brits it's important to check that the lawns had been correctly mowed to Wimbledon standards and to sit on a bench to watch the flowers grow. We had a peek at the beautiful swimming pool, took some photos of the big white wedding cake of a building, checked out the king palms and the old vintage car and generally just mooched about. Despite being in the heart of Delhi, it was a calm and pleasant place to just stroll around.
Eating and Drinking
The Imperial has enough different restaurants that you could stay for a week and eat different cuisine each night.
--The Spice Route
Of all the restaurants, this is the really famous one. Voted by Conde Nast Traveller as one of the top 10 restaurants in the world, it's an absolute stunner. The restaurant took seven years to build - not because they got a dodgy builder in but because it's so exceptional and decorated in such detail. The theme of the restaurant is the journey of spices through Asia and in places it's built to look like a boat, in others like a temple. The walls are painted with detailed and delicate wall paintings - on a par with anything you'll find in a temple. In fact the mural artists who painted the restaurant were brought in from a temple in Kerala. The restaurant is built on Feng Shui principles (I've heard that's oriental for 'I've moved your sofa, that'll be 500 quid please).The entire restaurant is non-smoking but not for any of the normal reasons. They just don't want the smoke to damage the paintings.
But what about the food I hear you ask - oh, it's a delight. It's a fusion of styles and flavours from around SE Asia - bits of Thai, mixed with bits of Chinese, Malay, Vietnamese and so on. We ate there this time and had: a bottle of Perrier, two beers, two soups, three main courses (one prawn, two vegetable), rice, a spice ice-cream that was astonishingly creative with pepper, anis and cinnamon). The bill came to 4500 rp including tax - that's about £55. To put it in perspective, in Ladakh lunch for two was costing about £3-4 but this isn't a scruffy little café. It's a world famous restaurant charging not much more than you'd pay at a local Thai restaurant in the UK. So I'd say that a visit to The Imperial really should include a meal at the Spice Route.
-- 1911 restaurant and bar
'Why does a hotel built in 1931 have a restaurant and bar called 1911' asked my husband. Whilst he'd been snoozing earlier I'd read the brochure so I knew that the date refers to the year that Delhi became India's capital city. I bet you didn't realise this review would be SO educational. We drank and watched football in the 1911 Bar - very nice, long curved high bar with lower tables scattered around. Subtle but attentive service although we struggled to get the bill at the end. Two diet cokes in the bar (with lots of free nibbles) came to about £4 - pricey by Indian standards but not outrageous for a hotel of this standard.
Breakfast is served in the 1911 restaurant - you can eat inside or out on the veranda. We loved it. The walls are painted with fine countryside scenes, the tables are laid out not too close and are plenty big enough for breakfast. The selection of food was fine but not over the top and the service was excellent. In fact, throughout the hotel the service was always of a high standard without ever tipping over into the obsequious and insincere fawning that characterises a lot of expensive hotels. We really got the feeling that the staff was genuinely proud to work at the Imperial and nothing was too much trouble.
-- 1911 Brasserie
Serves food with a French influence in traditional surroundings.
-- San Gimignano
Serves food with Italian influence in more modern surroundings and with its own attached garden
-- Daniell's Tavern
Despite sounding like a pub, this is the restaurant that serves Thali's (mixed dish meals on a metal tray) from the different regions of India.
-- Patiala Peg
This is another bar
-- Atrium
This is a naturally lit inside courtyard in the area outside the entrances to the Spice Route and Daniells' Tavern. You can get snacks and afternoon tea here in wicker chairs and a more relaxed atmosphere.
-- Baguette
This is the pastry shop, just off the lobby. It wasn't open when we went for a look but it should serve a mix of European and Asian style cakes, pastries, patties and ice-creams. Shame we missed it really.
You can also, of course get room service delivered but I think you'd be making a mistake to miss out on the restaurants.
Other Services
Not especially interesting or unusual but they have the following:
Business Centre
Car Rental
Cashier - for changing money at good (fixed) rates
Laundry
Travel Desk
Barber/Hair Salon
Bookshop
Fitness Centre
Pool
.. and apparently a spa, opening soon.
Hotel Awards
The Imperial has received more awards than you could shake a stick at. A few of them are listed below and I've copied them from the website:
SATTE Award - 2005 - winner of the SATTE 2005 Award in the category of 'Creating Brands - Luxury Hotels.' The recognition has been conferred upon The Imperial for being a benchmark for excellence in the industry.
Five Star Diamond Award - 2004, 2005 - the first recipient in India of the prestigious Five Star Diamond Award, presented by The American Academy of Hospitality Sciences.
The National Tourism Award, Department of Tourism, Government of India, 1995,
1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000.
Grand Hotel of the World -Financial Times, London, April 2000.
The most luxurious Hotel of Delhi - CNN Hot Spots, June 2001.
The Spice Route - one of the top ten restaurants in the world - Condé Nast Traveller, September 2001.
The Imperial - One of Asia's grandest colonial hotels - Thailand & Indochina Traveller, March - May 2002.
So, would I recommend it?
Do you need to ask? Really?
I would absolutely recommend it - if you can't afford to stay, go for dinner. If you can't afford dinner, just go and have a coffee in the Atrium and soak up the atmosphere. Don't forget to use the loos - they are gorgeous. So long as you aren't too scruffy, smelly and unkempt, it's very unlikely that any tourist would be turned away. Just stroll on in and have a good look.
Thanks for your time - sorry it was so long but I was just bursting with things to say about this place. And if you are wondering, the to do list now has 'go back to the Imperial' so it's no shorter than before.
