Cambridge is a small city in the East of England whose world-wide renown derives from its University. Frequently bracketed with Oxford under the composite title Oxbridge, it is nevertheless distinct in its size, setting and ambience. Although steeped in history its student population gives it a busting, modern atmosphere and cutting-edge high-tech research and development contributes to its prosperity.
History
Cambridge is situated at the edge of the flatlands of the Fens, on and around a large bend of the small river Cam as it flows northwards to join the Great Ouse south of Ely. Although the area is very flat there is a small rise at Castle Hill and this formed the basis of settlements from before the Iron Age. The Romans used it as a military outpost and later Saxons and Vikings settled here.
Its modern history began in 1209 when a group of students from Oxford fled from persecution and the University was established. It has just celebrated 800 years of existence. The roll call of alumni features leaders in every sphere of political, scientific, literary and artistic life. In the 20th century, however, it became particularly outstanding for scientific advances: Rutherford, Chadwick and Cockcroft did pioneering work on atomic structure here, and Crick and Watson announced the discovery of DNA. In medicine Addenbrooke's Hospital became one of the major teaching hospitals. These advances led to spin-offs, and the setting up of research and development companies clustered around Cambridge has given the area the title of Silicon Fen. As a significant tourist attraction, with over 4 million visitors annually bringing in more than £300m, tourism is also a major contributor to the local economy.
Getting there and getting around
Cambridge is easily reached by road, with the M11 passing about two miles to the west and having three exits to the north, centre and south of the city.
Stansted Airport is less than 30 miles away and there are good rail services to London with a journey time of less than an hour. Once there, however, getting around the city by car is less easy, with its narrow streets and compact layout. Many streets are pedestrianised or for public service vehicles only. At the north and south exits from the M11 there are park and ride services and getting around the main attractions on foot is both practical and pleasant. The students mostly get around by bike. A bus tour offered by
City Sightseeing Cambridge allows visitors to get their bearings and its hop on/hop off service gives them time to spend at the attractions of their choice. The slow-flowing, shallow river is ideal for punting and in the warm weather
Punting on the Cam provides a relaxing experience as well as an opportunity to see many sights from a different perspective.
The University
The major feature of Cambridge is, of course, the University, which has always been and is still today one of the top universities in the world. But whereas Oxford is described as a city with a university in it, Cambridge is characterised as a university with a city in it. This is a reflection of its size: it has a population of just over 100,000 of which more than 20,000 are students. It is also a very compact city where town and gown intermingle - there are almost no areas where the presence of the University is not felt. The single most interesting structure in Cambridge, however, worth a visit if nothing else existed in the city, is
King's College Chapel. Built in the 15th century it represents one of the pinnacles of English gothic architecture. Every Christmas, on the occasion of the Carol Service, its soaring pillars and intricate vaulting are beamed across the world.
The University comprises 31 self-contained and self-financing colleges where the students live. They vary in size from Trinity, the largest with over 600 undergraduates, to Peterhouse, the smallest, with less than 300, and in age from the oldest, again Peterhouse, founded in 1284, to Robinson, the newest, which dates from 1979. A tour of the college buildings dotted around the city is a must for visitors. Although there is a common design in that all are built round quads, or "courts" as they are called here, and have a chapel and hall (refectory), each is nevertheless unique in its style and ambience.
King's College,
Trinity College and
St John's College stand in a row in the centre of the city along the banks of the river, known as the Backs. Trinity, as noted above, is the largest college and was founded in 1546. It is famous for its Great Court, scene of the Great Court Run where runners attempt to circle the Court in the time it takes the clock to strike 12 (approx 43 seconds). The Run forms a central scene in the film Chariots of Fire.
St John's, second largest college and slightly older than Trinity, is known for its Bridge of Sighs, although its only real resemblance to the Venetian original is that it is covered and crosses the river, linking Third and New Courts. Further along, another college has a famous bridge across the Cam.
Queens' College has its Mathematical Bridge which, legend has it (wrongly), was put together without nuts, bolts or nails.
Gardens and Open Spaces
All the college courts are laid to lawn and formal beds, and many colleges also have separate Fellows' Gardens. The courts are generally quiet and peaceful, and once through the college gates the hubbub of the city dies away. A larger garden, covering 40 acres in the centre of the city, is the
University Botanic Garden established by Darwin's professor as a teaching and research resource. Both
Christ's Pieces and Parker's Piece are open parks with free access.
Non-University Buildings
Early settlement around
Castle Hill has left only the grassy motte of the Norman castle visible today. The Anglo-Saxon church of
St Bene't's dates from the 11th century and is one of the oldest buildings in the county. The
Round Church built by the Normans in the 12th century is, as its name suggests, an unusual shape, and one of only five of this design in England.
Great St Mary's Church pre-dates the University but was absorbed by it and eventually became known as the University Church. A climb of 123 steps to the top of its tower gives a fine view. Of more recent vintage is
Fosters' Bank. It's unusual to have a bank building as an attraction but this was purpose-built for the Foster Brothers in 1890, and its interior of domed cupola and Romanesque-style tiling has been preserved. It is still a bank, though now a high street name.
Museums and Art Galleries
The
Fitzwilliam Museum is considered one of the finest museums outside London with its collections of antiquities, ceramics, armour, medieval manuscripts and paintings. . It was originally the collection of the 7th Viscount Fitzwilliam who bequeathed it to the University. Another bequest was by a former curator of the Tate Gallery who moved to Cambridge and eventually left his collection of mostly 20th century art to the University. It is on display in his house at
Kettle's Yard. Many other University departments have their collection open to the public, and there is a cluster of museums around Downing Street. On the north side of the street is the New Museums Site, although it comprises not just museums but also parts of the science departments including the famous Cavendish Laboratory. The
Zoology Museum and the
Whipple Museum of the History of Science are both here. On the other side of Downing Street is the
Sedgwick Museum of Earth Sciences
Entertainment and Leisure
The three theatres in the city, the
ADC Theatre, the
Cambridge Arts and the
Corn Exchange between them provide a variety of live drama, music and comedy. The first two are University-linked and both have put on the famous Cambridge Footlights revues which propelled many performers to stardom. The Corn Exchange is council-run and well known regionally for attracting big name music groups.
The city is full of pubs and small eateries but three establishments stand out. In the restaurant bracket there is the recently opened
Alimentum, which as well as serving award-winning food also attempts to be eco-friendly in all parts of its operation.
Fitzbillies also has a restaurant attached, but has always been best known as a bakery and is famous for its Chelsea buns. For a bit of history with your pint, the
Eagle fits the bill, as this was where Crick and Watson announced their discovery of the structure of DNA. A decade before that it was a favourite haunt of American airmen who have left their names inscribed on the walls.
Rowing in eights is a favourite student occupation both here and at Oxford, and most students participate at some level, from the purely social to the élite who take part in the annual
Boat Race on the Thames. Visitors to Cambridge during May Week (perversely, the first week in June, after exams are over) should see students rowing in fun races in fancy dress.
Accommodation
To service the large number of visitors it receives, the city has a range of hotels and guest houses both new and traditional. The four star
De Vere University Arms is an imposing Victorian building in the centre of the city, which has retained many original features while still offering a totally modern service. Two further four star establishments, the
Crowne Plaza and
Doubletree Cambridge Garden House are modern and centrally located, the latter on the bank of the river. Slightly further away from the centre is the
Felix, another Victorian building which has been modernised to create a boutique hotel. For self-contained accommodation there are several serviced apartment buildings. The five star
Nobleo Apartments are distinctive in design and luxuriously fitted. The city is particularly well served by small guest houses and bed and breakfasts. For example, the three star establishments
Arundel House,
Ayah Villa, and
Brooklands offer good value accommodation close to the main attractions. For a budget stay,
YHA Cambridge is near the main line station.
Given the problematic traffic in the centre, some practical alternatives are available on the fringes of the city. Examples are three star chain hotels, such as
Best Western Gonville,
Best Western Cambridge Quy Mill and
Express by Holiday Inn. For on-site leisure and conference facilities the four star
Menzies Cambridge Hotel and Golf Course is a large property with more than 100 rooms and set in 100 acres.
In 2010 some colleges have opened up their premises for bed and breakfast guests during university vacation periods. Previously staying in a Cambridge college was only possible for conference delegates but the opportunity to sleep in one of the historic buildings is now available to everyone.
The surrounding area
Cambridge is full of delights, but the visitor here for a longer period may wish to explore the surrounding area. A favourite destination for punting is the small village of
Grantchester, famous, of course, as the home of the poet Rupert Brooke. (Rupert Brooke’s name is on the world war 1 memorial in King’s College Chapel. The Old Vicarage is still there, but is privately owned (by Jeffrey Archer) and cannot be visited. However the
Rupert Brooke pub is beside the river and has a clock standing at ten to three. A little further afield is
Duxford, and both at the
Imperial War Museum based on the airfield at Duxford, and at the
Cambridge American Cemetery in Coton, history comes right up to the 20th century. Duxford was a major world war 2 airfield both during the Battle of Britain and later as a base for American bomber squadrons.
Visitors should find that Cambridge well deserves its reputation as a major tourist attraction with its range of historic buildings, attractive river and open spaces and a city centre that is easy and a delight to explore.
