For most people, a visit to Arran in the Firth of Clyde starts with the view of Brodick bay looming ever closer from the Ardrossan-Brodick ferry. The most striking element in that scenery are the mountains, in particular Goatfell, which dominates the scene. Brodick is the largest settlement on the island and is situated in the middle part off Arran's east coast. The name Brodick comes from the Norse for
Broad Bay, a very apt description.
There is a tendency for guide books to dismiss Brodick as a one-trick-pony, beautifully set in the bay of Brodick but with few other charms. This was how Beverly Beyette of the Los Angeles Times saw it at first: "
Gazing on a row of bygone-era seashore hotels and boarding houses, I thought of one of those vintage English movies set in some dreary seaside holiday resort". Historically, the town's development was slowed down by the landowners' aversion to seeing the view from the castle's widows spoiled by too large a settlement, and this is certainly reflected in the somewhat lacklustre feel of the town. Yet, judging by the number of hotels and other accommodations, it was a very popular base for visiting the island.
Nowadays, the town is undergoing a bit of a revival. Tourism is the main industry on the island and Brodick Country Park alone welcomed over 53,000 visitors in 2005 for instance. This revitalisation is not just due to the presence of a ferry terminal, but to the selection of services on offer for visitors, and to the fact that all three main roads on the island can be accessed from here. The A840 leads to the mountainous south of the island and to
Sannox and
Lochranza, while the A841 opens access to the gentler, hilly south and the villages of
Lamlash,
Whiting Bay,
Kildonan,
Blackwaterfoot and
Shiskine. The fittingly named string road meanders through the mountains directly to Blackwaterfoot.
How to get there
There are two ferries linking the island to the mainland, and the main one sails from
Ardrossan to Brodick, a short 55 minute crossing, which seems like no time at all for anyone lucky enough to travel on a clear day, as the views on approaching Brodick are spectacular . This is a roll-on roll-off ferry and although it appears quite big, booking is recommended if you are taking a car. Car hire is available on Brodick pier and the bus station is next to the ferry terminal. There are 4 sailings a day in winter and 5 in summer (with an extra one on a Friday). To travel to
Ardrossan harbour, trains from Glasgow Central station run regularly to coincide with the ferry, and there are regular buses operated by Stagecoach Western Scotland buses from Glasgow Buchanan bus station too. The nearest airport to Ardrossan is Prestwick airport, but
Glasgow Airport is also within easy reach, and both have buses to Ardrossan harbour.
A little history
Human presence on Arran goes back many thousand years, with hunter-gatherers 'island-hoping' all over the west of Scotland giving way in Neolithic times to farmers who settled there and left traces of their existence all over the island. In Brodick itself, we can trace the castle back to the fifth century, when a fortress belonging to the Kingdom of Dalriada (peopled by the
scotti tribe) stood on the site of the present castle.
Later, the Vikings appeared in the area and exerted a growing influence and by 870 Olaf the White controlled the Firth of Clyde. It is difficult to give a brief, linear account of the ensuing years, as Vikings and Celts vied for domination. The Vikings occupied Brodick until about the year 1156 when they were finally driven from the island by Somerled who created the
Lord of the Isles dynasty. Arran passed to the Scottish Kingdom in 1263 after the
Battle of Largs, but was considered personal property of the Stewart kings rather than Crown property. They built the original castle some time later but it was to change hands a few times during the ensuing years and was damaged several times in the process.
In 1503, a Royal Charter awarded Arran to the Hamiltons who rebuilt the castle in 1510 in the form of a Tower house. This was not the end of its tribulations as the castle was again to suffer, first during battles between the Campbells and MacLeans in 1528, and then in 1544 at the hands of Henry VIII's troops. Again, the castle changed hands a few times and was rebuilt and modified, until in 1650 Cromwell occupied and extended it.
At the end of the 18th Century, the Duke of Hamilton owned almost all of the island and mass emigration meant large areas were deserted, later to be given over to sheep farming.
What to see
Whilst in Brodick,
Brodick Castle is a must-see, in particular the park and gardens. A 30 minute walk from the tourist office to the castle would allow the visitor to pass many of Brodick's attractions on the way. The tourist office is situated opposite the ferry terminal and walking along the promenade, with the sea to your right, you will soon come to the
Arran Adventure Company which offers a number of sport and physical activities such as power kiting or gorge walking and also power boating. Continuing on our walk, we now pass though the
Golf Course, one of seven on the island.
Next, it is the Isle of Arran
Heritage Museum where over several buildings you can explore the archaeology, genealogy and geology of the island. Here is a sculpture of
Clachaig Man which was reconstructed using a 5000 years old skull found on Arran.
Still following the signs, the next stop is the
Home Farm Visitor's Centre which groups together
the Island Cheese Co. Factory Shop,
Arran Aromatics and other gift shops. This is also the setting for
Creelers restaurant which specialise in fresh and smoked local seafood. More local produce is on offer at the
Arran Brewery, where you can watch the brewing process before sampling the goods in the last stop before reaching the castle.
What to do
Arran is the ideal location for people who like active holidays and like the rest of the island, it offers spectacular walks, golfing and many other activities.
Walking
Arran is a walker's paradise, and Brodick offers much to those who enjoy this way of exploring. The walk to the top of
Goatfell is one of the most popular on the island with several routes catering for varying levels of fitness. In order to protect this fragile environment, it is important for walkers to stick to the paths. From the top, climbers are rewarded with panoramas that take in the entire island and beyond.
Brodick is also the start of the
Coastal Way which goes right round Arran and in so doing takes in a number of the different habitats found on the island. Brodick is included in two sections of the Coastal way,
Brodick to Sannox via Goatfell ridge and
Lamlash to Brodick via Claughlands.
Cycling
Arran is a popular destination for road cycling and is also home to a growing network of mountain biking trails, in particular a 10 km route based around the castle. Information, maps and route descriptions available from the
Arran Bike Club. Bikes can be brought over on the ferry or rented from Brodick.
Other sports
Golfing is a main draw to an island which sports seven golf courses (one for each day of the week!). In Brodick, golfers might be distracted from their game by the stunning views all around. And if golf is not your thing, you could always try the putting green or the crazy golf, although the latter tends to look more flooded than crazy... The bowling green welcomes visitors but is only open in good weather to avoid damaging the green.
The aforementioned
Arran Adventure Company offers a wealth of activities, from the gentle archery session to the more demanding climbing with ropes or sea kayaking.
Nature watching
Arran has much to offer the geologist, botanist and naturalist. Without even leaving Brodick, you might see seals in the bay, red squirrels in the castle's grounds (Arran is one of the last few places in Scotland where the grey squirrel isn't present) and even the odd red deer, although the best place to see them is in nearby Lochranza.
Events and Festivals
Wildlife is such a big part of Arran's appeal that a
Wildlife Festival with events all over the island was created in 2006, and this already looks set to be a success. The National Trust for Scotland have a programme of special events at Brodick Castle.
As well as the Nature Festival, Brodick has its own
Highland Games at the beginning of August with heavy event (burly men in kilts throwing tree trunks and hammers with all their might), Highland dancing, pipe bands and track events.
Check with the tourist office on arrival for other one-off events.
Where to stay
There is a wealth of accommodation choices in Brodick, many of a high standard.
Kilmichael Country Hotel tops the bill with its five stars, and
Auchrannie House and Spa offers pampering and treats to their clients. There are a number of other
Hotels,
Guest Houses and
Bed & Breakfasts available to suit different needs and budgets.
Self-catering is also an option, for instance the
Brodick Castle Kennels offer luxury accommodation, despite the name.
Glen Rosa campsite is the only one in the area and it is pretty basic. it is only suitable for tents and the only facilities are a toilet block with cold running water. It is however situated in an area recognised as being of Special Scientific Interest due to the geology, fauna and flora of the Glen, and is ideally situated for a number of walking tracks. Again, campers are reminded to take care of their environment.
Where to eat
There are a number of
'eateries' in Brodick, to suit a variety of tastes and budgets. Most of the hotels do food, with the
Garden Restaurant at the Auchrannie hotel and
Kilmichael Country House, each sporting two AA rosettes, cornering the 'fine dining' market. The
Ormidale is a less formal affair but offers honest pub grub and has a good selection of single malts. Quiz night is open to everyone, and the locals make you feel very welcome.
Creelers is a good place for fish lovers and
Brodick Bar and Brasserie is a busy place with an eclectic choice of dishes from the blackboard.
Other practical information
Internet access is available in the library and at the Arran Adventure Centre. There is a supermarket in the town and other shops include a lovely little chocolate shop.
See our links for more information on
Brodick and
Arran.
